Australia as a wine country is in a state of flux. The darling of the market in the 1990s, the brand-led formula that served it so well has begun to look tired. Quality Australian wine, however, has headed for the hills. Cool-climate is the catchphrase, and regions enjoying long sunshine hours with challengingly cool climates such as Clare, Coonawarra, Mornington Peninsula and McLaren Vale are producing wines of great complexity. The highly sought after wines from new wineries such as Two Hands, Wakefield and Majella vie for space alongside the more established classics in Torbreck and Brokenwood.