Michel Chapoutier has been in charge since 1988. He has dramatically improved the quality. The vineyards are now all biodynamic. The wines spend a maximum of 18 months in small oak casks and all are bottled unfiltered. Michel specialises in top blends, such as La Mordoree made from 60 year old vines on the Cote Blonde and Ermitage Le Pavillon from 70 year old vines at the base of Les Bessards.
Tasting notes: "The 1994 Le Pavilion is a blockbuster, phenomenally concentrated wine. Le Pavilion is generally among the top three or four wines of France in every vintage! The 1994's opaque purple color, and wonderfully sweet, pure nose of cassis and other black fruits intertwined with minerals, are followed by a wine of profound richness, great complexity, and full body. It is almost the essence of blackberries and cassis. There is huge tannin in this monster Hermitage, that somehow manages to keep its balance and elegance. Made from a parcel of vines (which I have walked through), some of which predate the phylloxera epidemic, the 1994 Ermitage Le Pavilion should be purchased only by those who are willing to invest 10-12 years of cellaring. It will not reach full maturity before the end of the first decade of the next century, after which it will last for 30 + years." Robert Parker 96 points
Tasting notes: "The extraordinary white Hermitage Cuvee de l'Oree is mindboggling in both 1995 and 1996. Both wines represent the essence of white Hermitage. Made from 100% Marsanne from extremely old vines and microscopic yields of 12 hectoliters per hectare, the wines overwhelm any evidence of their barrique aging. Both possess extraordinary intensity, full body, the multi-layered texture of a great Montrachet, and intense, honeyed, mineral-like fruit flavors that ooze over the palate with remarkable richness, yet no sense of heaviness. These are undoubtedly the greatest white Hermitages I have ever tasted. Both should drink fabulously for another 2-3 years, and then shut down for 10-15 years. Both wines should easily last 40-50 years - assuming excellent storage." Robert Parker 97 points
Tasting notes: "The 1997 Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonnieres is a soft, fat, slightly acidic offering. It possesses a saturated dark ruby/purple color, as well as a pronounced cherry liqueur nose with smoke, roasted herbs, and underbrush notes in the background. Full-bodied, dense, chewy, and made in a user-friendly, accessible style, this wine should be delicious when released, and age well for 12-15 years." Robert Parker 90 - 93 points
Tasting notes: "The fabulous 1997 Hermitage l'Ermite possesses the ripeness and exotic characteristics of a great Pomerol, but the structure, smoky minerality, and power of Hermitage. The color is a saturated black/ruby. The wine is rich, chewy, thick, and impeccably well-balanced. This wine will be approachable in its youth, but is capable of lasting 30-40 years." Robert Parker 91 - 94 points
Tasting notes: "The 1998 Ermitage Cuvee de l'Oree's explosive bouquet offers a liquid minerality, honeyed tropical fruits, peaches, and acacia flowers. Amazingly, the 100% new oak treatment has been totally absorbed. The wine is extremely full-bodied, fresh, and pure, with an immense palate presence as well as finish. Drink it over the next 4-5 years, or forget about it for a decade." Robert Parker 99 points
